London Fashion Week, a femininity on the skin

London Fashion Week, a femininity on the skin

London Fashion Week, a femininity on the skin

Honestly romantic, British parades put androgyny muted and celebrate the return of poetic dresses, Japanese kimonos and Victorian ruchs.

Special envoy. - So, in London, next spring, the girls will put on bermudas and jackets of small strike. To the favorite pieces of the male wardrobe (too much?) Long in the spotlight, they will prefer outfits to the purely feminine sensuality. On the catwalks of the first English parades are jostling flowery dresses taken in the wind, silk blouses resurrected from the 1970s, volumes flying and a few pairs of gigot sleeves borrowed in the Victorian fashion - brought up to date. But the refractory women with the vertiginous heels suggested by this new attitude reassure themselves. In the UK, designers do not tear down flat shoes. Certainly, we are in the stronghold of Queen Victoria, but also in the capital of punk.

London Fashion Week, a femininity on the skin

Waiting for a show - twenty minutes late are de rigueur - it is fun to see the work of a Areopagus a designer. Because he always reveals himself in his image. Thus we recognize the close guard of Simone Rocha to her tutus with muslin embroidered with roses and her fancy derbies glued on Plexi sole. An identifiable silhouette among a thousand, celebrated again on the catwalk. But when the previous spectacular collections of the young Irishwoman found it difficult to put in a daily dressing, her spring-summer 2016 is not costumed. The puffed dresses, printed with Japanese flowers and muscled by a macrame harness, float around the body. With the kimonos, the designer steals the flat knots that she pricks in epaulettes on narrow vests in Neoprene. The lengths remain modest without ever falling into the disgraceful and controlled transparencies do not pay in the vulgar. Fascinated by techno material, Simone Rocha shapes bibs in Scoubidou, breaking the softness of skirts with past shades. A delight from the first to the last pass.

Welcome to City Hall, a glass rugby ball screwed on the banks of the Thames. After showing white paw to penetrate the enclosure of the building, the guests of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi take place in the amphitheater bathed in light. On its own, the place would have deserved the detour. The delicate cloakroom of Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi makes the moment most charming. As if on the trail of a circus, the models paraded the thinly veiled skin of mandarin or azure spangled lace, gathered in ruchés, in silk powder dresses dotted with flowers, in suggestive blouses and skirts with a scalpel. Some looks are in the rock outfit - the Perfecto goes back on the podium, is not it too early? - but the "girl girl" of the first passages steals the show from the boys missed.

Keep your boys, David Koma loose his young ladies. The Georgian designer has never hidden his penchant for athletic bodies and pays tribute to them, next summer, through a series of skating tights to unzip top thigh, pants on the skin and corsets Stretch. Koma bards his silhouettes of belts obis diverted way bondage and cuts the tulle in the muscle in a pallet of black and white softened with mint green, nude and sky blue, the favorite color of Mugler, which the adopted Londoner also ensures the artistic direction.

The sun hits the crystal tent in front of Central Saint Martins School on the occasion of the Jonathan Saunders parade. So much the better, the models are more credible when they wander in their loincloths flowing on the hips and their kimonos ultra velvet calfskin. Heat obliges, the girls untie their silk ties and unbutton the wrists of their poet's blouses. Saunders slices cut tops, skirts whose impeccable lines slide along the thighs. An outstanding colorist, he combines brick and terracotta hues, spring green and blue Klein, cappuccino and fresh butter and marries the prints without dissonance. Behind the scenes, he says he wants to get closer to a "sensuality without effort", a bet raised by the hand of master. It remains to be regretted that the collections of the talented Scots find so little resonance in France.

The perfect jean (for the season) exists, it is scratched Topshop Unique. Buttoned on a bloomed silk shirt, the pants fit the waist, curve the buttocks, lengthen the leg while discovering the ankle. A feat. And if the podium collection of the king of fast fashion does not compete with those of the star designers on the program this week, this is not what the public expects to find anyway. But as always, the style is revealed in the spirit of the times: frilly dress printed